As dawn breaks over Miavana, the birdsong is accompanied by the rhythmic whir of blades, signalling the beginning of something extraordinary. From the helipad, a sleek silhouette rises; a helicopter lifting into the early light. Below, the island falls away, and the sea stretches in every shade of blue.
As you soar above Miavana, you are immersed in views of pristine turquoise waters cradling the island’s edges, a living canvas of colour. The landscape changes as you go: savannahs of golden grass ripple with the wind, dotted with African palm trees and the soft geometry of traditional villages, where local people move through their morning in quiet rhythm. Then, the view shifts again as you enter the protected forests, vast mountain ranges blanketed by an ocean of canopies where the Golden-Crowned Sifaka are naturally at home.
It is a journey not just across space, but into a deeper, wilder Madagascar.
Soon, the forest of Daraina reveals itself in a living patchwork of emerald and gold. Here lies Tattersali Camp, a modest sanctuary with a mighty purpose: a conservation outpost deep in the Daraina reserve, run by our partners at Fanamby, within the protected Loky Manambato area.
Far from Madagascar’s more travelled paths, Daraina is a place where nature still reigns. It is here, in these ancient forests, that one of the world’s rarest primates lives; the Golden-Crowned Sifaka.
Upon landing, Miavana’s guide will gently offer you drinks or snacks before you set off into the forest, or if you prefer, they will wait for your return. Setting off on foot, guests are led by Miavana’s experienced activities guide, together with Sahanala’s local rangers, whose knowledge of these forests is deep and intuitive. The walk is easy, unhurried, ranging between thirty minutes to an hour depending on where the lemurs have chosen to spend their morning.
The forest reveals itself in layers. Crowned Lemurs call softly through the canopy, sometimes gathering in lively, playful groups that mingle with the Sifakas. Found nowhere else on Earth, the striking Golden-Crowned Sifaka move with ease through their sanctuary, their pale fur and gold-tipped crowns catching shafts of light as they leap between trees. On the forest floor, your eyes adjust to spot jewel-toned chameleons, from the vivid panther to the tiny, leaf-sized Brookesia. Day geckos flash emerald between shafts of light, and even a harmless snake might slip quietly across the path.
Above it all, the baobabs stand watch. These Adansonia madagascariensis rise like ancient sculptures, their grey-barked trunks a testament to Madagascar’s enduring, resilient nature.
Birdsong accompanies every step. Couas dash low through the undergrowth, drongos flit through dappled light, and hawks wheel in the warm thermals above.
It is a soft, constant chorus, reminding you that you are walking within a landscape still ruled by the wild.
As your walk concludes, a small rise in the forest reveals the helicopter, waiting under the watchful gaze of the baobabs. Here, a moment to pause: a coffee, or a cool drink enjoyed slowly, as you take in the valley of trees before you. There is no rush, only the profound realisation of being somewhere truly rare.
When it is time to leave, Daraina remains as it was: quiet, wild, unchanged. The helicopter lifts with a gentle whirr, tracing a new route across savannah, forest, and sea. As Miavana reappears below, you return with a fresh perspective, eyes full of green and gold, and a spirit quietly stirred by a corner of Madagascar few ever get to know.
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